Break-In driving style

[8600RPM]

FI'll seating of piston rings occurs within 50 to 100 miles easy and great seating means great compression and max power long term. Plus less oil blow by and loss but really it's about ensuring the strongest performing engine.

Keep in mind bmw is mitigating risk, not recommending best practice. Given the average buyer would be confused by a more complex procedure and no break in "rule" would lead to ignorant people going over board (sustained redline, launching, sustained high speed), their only real strategy is to limit the improper wear and thus warranty cost.

If you read and understand the best way to break in an engine and understand general need for chassis to break in, you will do it much differently. But average bmw buyer wouldn't have attention to follow a "hard but not too hard " type procedure

[IND-Distribution]

I hate making public statements about this topic as a vendor, but will simply state that I am in agreement with 8600RPM and Merli for technical reasons.

[hyperboost]

do you guys have any idea how these cars are driven when it gets to the dealership? the tech, the lot guy, sales person all drive them HARD regardless of the miles on the odometer.
The tech does PDI first, then you buy the car, the lot guy/sales person will gas up the car. your new car just got two joy rides done.

[hyperboost]

clicky

[highbeamer]

Originally Posted by 8600RPM

But average bmw buyer wouldn't have attention to follow a "hard but not too hard " type procedure

"average BMW buyer" wouldn't have attention? What does that mean exactly?

[RingMeister01]

Originally Posted by 8600RPM

FWIW and I know there are always exceptions but after educated myself on proper ring seating and break-in theory, I followed no break-in on my brand new, 0 miles on pick-up e92 m3 and that engine was bullit proof to nearly 100k miles when I turned it in. Never a single engine problem. I was especially hard the first 100 miles. Not in Sustained redline but certainly hard loads up to 6500-7k rpms ( redline was 8400). I would let engine full warm up and then really get on the driving quite hard.

It literally burned ZERO oil with hard redline shifting driving for almost 100k miles in 3 years. I did oil changes every 7500 and great maintenance throughout but almost every person reported engine burning and I never had the problem.

So I personally never follow-break in anymore including on my f80

This

[michael3435]

Hi all, I just bought a black on black m3 and am very happy to be apart of the forums now. I have never owned a car like this; my last one was a 328xi coupe. LOVE my new car

I was curious as to what you guys think about the break in period? I am at 600 miles and the guy whole sold me the car said to not go past 4 or 5k rpm until the first service. I did some reading and some people say its ok to rev the car higher, some don't. Also, I learned that at the first service they enable launch control and "unlock more power". My question is if the car behaves any different after the 1st service and if it is not ok to rev the car higher and/or go fast?

[gblansten]

There is an entire subforum dedicated to the frequently asked question about break in.

http://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=628

[Carl L]

Read your manual and follow the instructions. Your salesperson was correct, keep revs below 5.5k but if you pass this a couple of times pre-first service it's no big deal so long as the car is warm. Remember, it's not just the engine it's the brakes, rear diff and gearbox which need to be broken in too.

Most of the people who suggest ignoring the recommended break-in procedure of people who are leasing they are unconcerned with the long term reliability of the vehicle.

Finally, be in the habit of leaving DSC fully on when you're on public roads. I'm a regular track goer and I'm always DSC on on the roads. Off occasionally (snow, or deserted parking lot if it floats your boat is fine). I've been saying this for years on here and M5board and finally people are starting to understand why.

Congrats on the car but remember his is a completely different animal to your 328 so please drive safely and don't hoon around (DSC can make you feel like a superstar driver) unless you're on the track.

[drexplode]

Originally Posted by Vigilant

Averaged 32 mpg from PCD to Florida at 70 mph without cruise control (not supposed to use before break in).

According to BMW owners manual:

Up to 1,200 miles/2,000 km
Drive at varying engine and road speeds, but
do not exceed 5,500 rpm and
106 mph/170 km/h.
Avoid full load or kickdown under all circumstances.

Cruise control can satisfy the above depending on elevation and speed changes from state to state. For example SC --> MI via I75.

[W///]

Originally Posted by drexplode

According to BMW owners manual:

Up to 1,200 miles/2,000 km
Drive at varying engine and road speeds, but
do not exceed 5,500 rpm and
106 mph/170 km/h.
Avoid full load or kickdown under all circumstances.

Cruise control can satisfy the above depending on elevation and speed changes from state to state. For example SC --> MI via I75.

Well if you are using cruise control, there really won't be much change in RPM, even with elevation change.

[Vigilant]

Originally Posted by drexplode

According to BMW owners manual:

Up to 1,200 miles/2,000 km
Drive at varying engine and road speeds, but
do not exceed 5,500 rpm and
106 mph/170 km/h.
Avoid full load or kickdown under all circumstances.

Cruise control can satisfy the above depending on elevation and speed changes from state to state. For example SC --> MI via I75.

This may be true with steep inclines and declines in hilly and mountainous regions...nothing but flat earth from SC to FL, so cruise control was not an option. I am sure the engine would have been fine to do so...the whole "follow the rules" before break in service is a thread unto itself.

Have 6500 miles and just did intermediate oil and filter change. Car is running beautifully...

[Bluex]

The idea of not using CC during break in is based upon a notion that, for technical purposes WAY outside my expertise, it's not good during that time to keep the engine at the same speed. (I'll let others bunk or de-bunk this).

If you buy into the notion that you SHOULD vary your engine speed often during break in, then yes, you should probably avoid CC. It's not that CC by itself is bad....it's literally just a substitute for your foot on the throttle, just keeping it at the right exact same point.

Personally, I have no idea if this is needed or not, or makes any difference whatsoever.

[CaryTheLabelGuy]

As for break-in, I'm a firm believer of seating a new engine's piston rings right off the bat, using a certain tried and true procedure. I won't go into that, as this isn't the focus of my post.

That being said, if you're not familiar with said piston seating or have no experience, you should just follow the manufacturers guidelines.

There is more going on than just piston ring seating. The entire rotating assembly needs to bed-in all of their contact parts. This takes time. One of the reasons they say to vary engine speed is to avoid harmonic vibrations that can happen at certain RPMs. This can cause excessive wear during break-in, when parts are not completely broken-in on their contact surfaces.

The other thing to consider is break-in is not just for the engine. The entire drivetrain needs to be broken in as well.

[Dshady]

Originally Posted by CaryTheLabelGuy

As for break-in, I'm a firm believer of seating a new engine's piston rings right off the bat, using a certain tried and true procedure. I won't go into that, as this isn't the focus of my post.

That being said, if you're not familiar with said piston seating or have no experience, you should just follow the manufacturers guidelines.

There is more going on than just piston ring seating. The entire rotating assembly needs to bed-in all of their contact parts. This takes time. One of the reasons they say to vary engine speed is to avoid harmonic vibrations that can happen at certain RPMs. This can cause excessive wear during break-in, when parts are not completely broken-in on their contact surfaces.

The other thing to consider is break-in is not just for the engine. The entire drivetrain needs to be broken in as well.

Not enough people think like this

[mkoesel]

I found cruise control as implemented on the F8x to be an invaluable tool for varying engine speed. This is because, for the first time on an M3, the CC will stay engaged when you switch gears. So, you could be cruising down the highway at a nice constant speed and running up and down the gears to vary engine RPM. After a minute of that, click the cruise switch up or down a couple miles per hour and do it again. Not something I did religiously, but I did find it useful during my commute in the early days of ownership.

Originally Posted by Bluex

The idea of not using CC during break in is based upon a notion that, for technical purposes WAY outside my expertise, it's not good during that time to keep the engine at the same speed. (I'll let others bunk or de-bunk this).

If you buy into the notion that you SHOULD vary your engine speed often during break in, then yes, you should probably avoid CC. It's not that CC by itself is bad....it's literally just a substitute for your foot on the throttle, just keeping it at the right exact same point.

Personally, I have no idea if this is needed or not, or makes any difference whatsoever.

[RocketBoots]

Originally Posted by mkoesel

I found cruise control as implemented on the F8x to be an invaluable tool for varying engine speed. This is because, for the first time on an M3, the CC will stay engaged when you switch gears. So, you could be cruising down the highway at a nice constant speed and running up and down the gears to vary engine RPM. After a minute of that, click the cruise switch up or down a couple miles per hour and do it again. Not something I did religiously, but I did find it useful during my commute in the early days of ownership.

Had not thought of doing with the cruise. Good idea

[schnazzy]

I know nothing of the BMW break-in guidelines but I have had multiple motors build for my BMW M3s.

The 500 mile guidelines from those builders (very respected) is to:
NO WOT
NOT over 5k rpm
NO Cruise control
Vary the speed significantly (30-80mph)
Don't stay at the same speed for 50+ miles

At 500-1000
over 5k a few times and do it gradually
can use cruise
Vary the speed somewhat
gradual full throttle but not jam on it

At 1000, assuming no issue, no leaks etc. it is good to go.

AGAIN this is NOT for the BMW factory motor. This is for a BMW motor that was modified and built.

[NorCal f80]

Met someone at a local BMW dealer and was told that there really is no break in and that BMW just wants the driver to get used to the power before going full throttle. Not sure if there is any truth to this. but oh well I starting driving hard since I got it with 8 miles on it ----- before I met this guy.

[mtecnic]

So I've been trying reallllly really hard not to go over 5500 and 105. But I still failed. i think I've seen 5700-5800 3 times and was over 105 twice.

The power is intoxicating. Nothing crazy until the car is at temp.

[heart_doctor]

Originally Posted by 0-100 ninja real quick

Mine's a lease, under warranty, fuuuuuck it...... drive it like you rented it.

[3er]

For better or worse, I followed BMW's recommendations.