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      01-20-2015, 11:03 PM   #1
Dave 90TT
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MusicarNW Trunk Sub Installed

So, I got my trunk sub and amp rack from musicarnw and did the install last weekend. I have the HK system, with the Bavsound Stage 1 speakers, and it sounds great but I feel that it still needs some sort of sub upgrade.

So, I ordered the Level 3 (custom) full bass upgrade from musicarnw.com and got it in a couple weeks ago. Just had the time this weekend to install.

The system is a JL xd1000/5 amp, 600 watts going to the JL Audio 10w6v3 sub in a custom enclosure for the trunk and 300 watts going to the underseat woofers (150x2). Includes all wiring, and the LC2 Audiocontrol to pull out the signal from the Logic7 HK amp. Pictures below of everything.

I wired it in this weekend, and it is relatively easy if you have any experience doing audio in a car. If installing the Bavsound Stage 1 upgrade was within your skills, but that was about it, then this is not for you, but it is really not all that hard. You have to remove the trunk panels, access the battery, wire in the power and ground, remove the Logic7amp harness and put the musicarnew harness in there, and it includes almost everything pre-wired, so all you have to do is plug in the various connectors. To me, it was pretty simple. Had to find an accessory wire in the trunk and ended up using the power supply to the USB port in the trunk.

You can see from the attached pictures how professional the wiring I received from musicarnw was well wrapped, and quite well done.

While in there, I laid down some pretty extensive dynamat; not sure it was necessary, but that's how I do things when I do an audio install.

As for the sound, still fine tuning some of the settings on the amp (musicarnw sets it all up for you, but I like to play with settings to get it exactly the way I like it), but it makes a serious difference in the sound. The filers on the amp are set so that low bass goes to the sub in the trunk ,and a high pass filter sends mid bass to the underseat subwoofers, relieving them of trying to do the low bass, which really makes them sound better. The sound in my M4 is now, officially (to me, at least), great.

Some pics, of the wiring, the finished product, some of the stages in the install and the amp rack and trunk sub: (now with normal sized images!)
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Last edited by Dave 90TT; 01-20-2015 at 11:09 PM.. Reason: Reduced image size
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      01-20-2015, 11:06 PM   #2
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Nice write up, Dave.
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      01-20-2015, 11:13 PM   #3
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Any rattle on the trunk when the bass is dumping?
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      01-20-2015, 11:15 PM   #4
Dave 90TT
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No rattles. Made sure I put everything back together well
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      01-20-2015, 11:39 PM   #5
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Looks great and am sure it sounds even better. Very clean and professional looking.
Would consider this if I weren't going to lease.
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      01-21-2015, 12:41 AM   #6
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They also offer a bigger amp putting 150w to each underseat sub plus 600w to the trunk...
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      01-21-2015, 06:04 AM   #7
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Where is the usb in the trunk you used?
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      01-21-2015, 07:24 AM   #8
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That looks great..I see this upgrade in my future for sure
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      01-21-2015, 08:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JacobF80 View Post
They also offer a bigger amp putting 150w to each underseat sub plus 600w to the trunk...
That's exactly what I have.
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      01-21-2015, 08:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Where is the usb in the trunk you used?
Driver's side, hiding behind a small plastic panel
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      01-21-2015, 08:16 AM   #11
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Nice setup, no rattle to the trunk lip. I need this now! How much did everything run you?
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      01-21-2015, 09:21 AM   #12
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Well, b/c I went a different route than what is listed on their website (I went with a level 3 add a sub combined with the level 2 full bass upgrade), it was more expensive than is listed on their website, around 2.2k. But the support from them has been phenomenal, and well worth it. I would recommend for most folks that the level 2 full bass upgrade is probably the best option, and according to their website, that runs $1495.

http://musicarnw.com/oe-look-subwoof...-coupe-f32f82/

And no, I am not in any way related to them, nor am I getting any kickbacks, or anything, I was just really happy with their professionalism, and support.
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      01-21-2015, 03:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT View Post
That's exactly what I have.
Awesome! I'm about to do the same thing, did you replace the underseat subs or leave as stock?
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      01-21-2015, 04:00 PM   #14
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They are stock right now; I'm told the Jehnert XE200s are mostly a direct fit, with some dremel work required to remove some plastic fins on the mount. I can get a pair of XE200s for about 500, so I am going to see how well the underseat mounts handle the 150x2 into them, and if I feel I am missing any mid bass, I might get those and put them in.
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      01-21-2015, 04:13 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT View Post
They are stock right now; I'm told the Jehnert XE200s are mostly a direct fit, with some dremel work required to remove some plastic fins on the mount. I can get a pair of XE200s for about 500, so I am going to see how well the underseat mounts handle the 150x2 into them, and if I feel I am missing any mid bass, I might get those and put them in.
You know I'm all about that bass, bout that bass, no treble

Sorry couldn't resist.
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      01-21-2015, 04:15 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneRib View Post
You know I'm all about that bass, bout that bass, no treble

Sorry couldn't resist.
You'll notice that the first thing I did was replace all the speakers with the Bavsound Stage 1 upgrade, which, to my ears, are quite nice. And I highly recommend doing that before anyone goes the add a sub route.
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      01-21-2015, 05:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT View Post
You'll notice that the first thing I did was replace all the speakers with the Bavsound Stage 1 upgrade, which, to my ears, are quite nice. And I highly recommend doing that before anyone goes the add a sub route.
Dave don't get me wrong. Not a knock at all. Just messing around.
I really like your setup.
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      01-21-2015, 05:09 PM   #18
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I figured you were joking, just wanted it clear for anyone else reading. If I had wanted big bass thumping and rattling everything, I would have put a couple of 12s in the trunk and about 3k watts of amps. I just happen to like loud, high quality music, and I think that I am getting that now.

Thanks for the compliments.
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      01-21-2015, 05:10 PM   #19
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Very nice job Dave! No way in hell I'm tackling this though.
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      01-21-2015, 05:39 PM   #20
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One advantage is BMW puts the battery in the trunk. Makes it easier to tap and run power. I wouldn't want to try running it from the engine bay.
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      01-21-2015, 06:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneRib View Post
One advantage is BMW puts the battery in the trunk. Makes it easier to tap and run power. I wouldn't want to try running it from the engine bay.
Isn't really hard, you just have to find where the hole in the firewall is, and run it through there, and then down along one side of the car. interior trim is usually pretty easy to take apart. Just got to keep the signal lines separated from the power lines.

My last car was an Infiniti G35, and I put a custom built (by me) PC, four amps, and a trunk sub in the trunk, as well as replacing and rewiring all the speakers and head unit through the car, with a touch screen for the PC in the dash. So, my opinion on how easy it might be is a bit biased. but really, I learned everything about car audio by trial and error, and the internet. So it is not all that hard to get to a level of professionalism that rivals the 'pro' audio shops out there.
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      01-21-2015, 06:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave 90TT View Post
Isn't really hard, you just have to find where the hole in the firewall is, and run it through there, and then down along one side of the car. interior trim is usually pretty easy to take apart. Just got to keep the signal lines separated from the power lines.

My last car was an Infiniti G35, and I put a custom built (by me) PC, four amps, and a trunk sub in the trunk, as well as replacing and rewiring all the speakers and head unit through the car, with a touch screen for the PC in the dash. So, my opinion on how easy it might be is a bit biased. but really, I learned everything about car audio by trial and error, and the internet. So it is not all that hard to get to a level of professionalism that rivals the 'pro' audio shops out there.
You are way more advanced than me.
I could run the wire, and since I plan on taking off door panels for the Bavsound kit, I should shut my mouth.
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