[200,000 club]

My 2008 328i will blow whatever temperature is outside, whether I have it on hot or cold. I know that the blower motor works because I can hear it pushing air, and I know i have an ac leak because I will fill it up with freon and it will blow cold for a couple of months, but neither me nor any local shops could find it. My heat doesnt work in the cold whatsoever, it just blows cold ass air when it's cold outside. I'm wondering if my heat and ac could have a related issue such as a heater control valve or clogged heater core, or any issues that might affect my hvac system in the way it is currently doing so.

[unrulyteach]

Originally Posted by 200,000 club

My 2008 328i will blow whatever temperature is outside, whether I have it on hot or cold. I know that the blower motor works because I can hear it pushing air, and I know i have an ac leak because I will fill it up with freon and it will blow cold for a couple of months, but neither me nor any local shops could find it. My heat doesnt work in the cold whatsoever, it just blows cold ass air when it's cold outside. I'm wondering if my heat and ac could have a related issue such as a heater control valve or clogged heater core, or any issues that might affect my hvac system in the way it is currently doing so.

If u hav inpa u can see ac values live. And a shop should be able to find the leak take it bmw, Luke be a bad evaporator

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by 200,000 club

... 2008 328i will blow whatever temperature is outside, whether I have it on hot or cold. I know that the blower motor works because I can hear it pushing air, and I know i have an ac leak because I will fill it up with freon and it will blow cold for a couple of months, but neither me nor any local shops could find it. My heat doesnt work in the cold whatsoever...

AFAIK, NO late 2007 or later vehicles sold in US have "Heater Valve". The first question is: Do you have the tools, time & interest in understanding the IHKA/ Climate Control System and diagnosing the issue yourself? If so, we can suggest specific tests you can do to identify the problems. Loss of Refrigeration capability is "Problem 1" (since it's summertime ;-) and NO Heat is "Problem 2" caused by a different issue.

So if you want to try to diagnose this YOURSELF, and learn something along the way, just provide answers to following:

1) Do you have a Laptop with INPA or ISTA installed, and if NOT do you at least have a Windows Laptop and desire to spend $45 for a K+DCAN Cable & spend several hours of your time downloading & installing BMW Standard Tools (FREE Download)? That provides the quickest diagnosis of the system and you can use that with guidance from Forum.

2) You can still diagnose the issues WITHOUT INPA, it just takes LONGER. Do you have Multimeter? Do you have Manifold Gauges for attaching to High & Low Side Ports of refrigeration system? Do you at least have a "Can Tap" with gauge for Low Side pressure reading? Can you follow a wiring diagram, at least with interpretation help from forum, and test voltage at designated Pins or Wires?

3) Is your 328i ULEV or SULEV (N52 or N51 engine)?

4) What method/equipment was used to try to locate any R-134a leak? Dye, Sniffer, etc.

5) Have you tested operation of the Air Delivery Flaps: Defrost, Facia or Ventilation, Footwell -- to change vents that air is delivered from? Can you hear any "whir" of flap motors or "clunk" of flaps when those buttons on outside edges of Climate Control Panel are pressed?

6) Does Climate Control Panel Light up and display T-stat settings, blower speed "stairsteps" etc.? Do blower speed buttons (small fan/ large fan) increase/ decrease fan speed?

With answers to those questions we can help as much as you like. Otherwise, wish you better outcome with "shop" than achieved thus far.

George

[200,000 club]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

AFAIK, NO late 2007 or later vehicles sold in US have "Heater Valve". The first question is: Do you have the tools, time & interest in understanding the IHKA/ Climate Control System and diagnosing the issue yourself? If so, we can suggest specific tests you can do to identify the problems. Loss of Refrigeration capability is "Problem 1" (since it's summertime ;-) and NO Heat is "Problem 2" caused by a different issue.

So if you want to try to diagnose this YOURSELF, and learn something along the way, just provide answers to following:

1) Do you have a Laptop with INPA or ISTA installed, and if NOT do you at least have a Windows Laptop and desire to spend $45 for a K+DCAN Cable & spend several hours of your time downloading & installing BMW Standard Tools (FREE Download)? That provides the quickest diagnosis of the system and you can use that with guidance from Forum.

2) You can still diagnose the issues WITHOUT INPA, it just takes LONGER. Do you have Multimeter? Do you have Manifold Gauges for attaching to High & Low Side Ports of refrigeration system? Do you at least have a "Can Tap" with gauge for Low Side pressure reading? Can you follow a wiring diagram, at least with interpretation help from forum, and test voltage at designated Pins or Wires?

3) Is your 328i ULEV or SULEV (N52 or N51 engine)?

4) What method/equipment was used to try to locate any R-134a leak? Dye, Sniffer, etc.

5) Have you tested operation of the Air Delivery Flaps: Defrost, Facia or Ventilation, Footwell -- to change vents that air is delivered from? Can you hear any "whir" of flap motors or "clunk" of flaps when those buttons on outside edges of Climate Control Panel are pressed?

6) Does Climate Control Panel Light up and display T-stat settings, blower speed "stairsteps" etc.? Do blower speed buttons (small fan/ large fan) increase/ decrease fan speed?

With answers to those questions we can help as much as you like. Otherwise, wish you better outcome with "shop" than achieved thus far.

George

Thanks for the response, and yes I have a computer with the inpa and I have a dcan cable at my disposal. I didn't think I'd be able to diagnose my ac and heat using these tools, and honestly I was just hoping for someone who has had the same experience with me to tell me an easy fix or direct solution although I realize now I need to take the time to look at it myself. My car is fairly basic, n52n ulev, 6 speed, no Idrive, so i dont have the advantage of that. I dont think it is electrical because the whole system responds well, all buttons work as they should and I see no major issues. I'm just dreading having to look for this leak in the ac because I have never had to work on hvac diagnostics and repair, so hopefully it will be something I can learn from

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by 200,000 club

... yes I have a computer with the inpa and I have a dcan cable at my disposal. I didn't think I'd be able to diagnose my ac and heat using these tools... the whole system responds well, all buttons work as they should and I see no major issues. I'm just dreading having to look for this leak in the ac because I have never had to work on hvac diagnostics and repair, so hopefully it will be something I can learn from

INPA is the quickest way to (1) See if there are any Fault Codes saved in IHKA Module Memory, or JBBF/JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module Memory; (2) See what Refrigerant Pressure is (per Sensor on High Side line); (3) See what Evaporator Temperature is; (4) See if all EIGHT (8) Flap Motors are operating, and if NOT, which ones are NOT operating.

I would begin by: Checking for Fault Codes saved in IHKA Module AND JBBF Module (since Pressure Sensor & Compressor Valve both connect to JBBF/JBE); Checking Refrigerant Pressure Sensor value as received by IHKA Module AND as measured by Manifold Gauge or Can Tap Gauge, if you have such a gauge. Let us know what you find (attach ScreenPrints of INPA Screens), and we can suggest Next Steps.

So you can get an idea of where to start, I attach a ScreenPrint of the IHKA > F5 Status > F1 Analog Inputs Screen. This screen shows several Inputs to the IHKA (Climate Control) Module which will be helpful in Diagnosing your situation, particularly:
1) Refrigerant Pressure Sensor input as received by IHKA Module (Bottom-Left bar graph);
2) Evaporator Temperature Sensor input as received by IHKA Module (2nd from Bottom-Right);

If you have manifold gauges, you can COMPARE Pressure Sensor input per INPA with High Side Manifold gauge reading to make sure IHKA is getting correct signal, or if there is a fault with Sensor or its connector/ wiring. The Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Value UNITS = bar, whereas Manifold gauge readout is PSIG (Pounds per square inch GAUGE. 1 bar = 14.5 PSIG.

So if you are getting NO refrigeration/ cooling, then FIRST step is to assess the refrigeration circuit for Refrigerant Pressure. When vehicle has sat for a few hours, BEFORE starting engine and causing Compressor to "pump" refrigerant, the system should be "at equilibrium" where High Side & Low Side pressures are the SAME. If the system were properly charged, the Manifold gauge readout on either side should be in range of 87+ PSIG = 6 bar+. I don't know the MINIMUM Pressure at equilbrium which is necessary for the Compressor Valve to operate and cause the Compressor to "Pump" refrigerant, but is it probably in the range of 2 or 3 bar.

Also attached is an "IHKA Module Tutorial" which describes: (1) HOW to connect to the IHKA Module, (2) How to read Fault Codes using "F4 Fault Memory", and (3) HOW to View Parameters or Inputs as received by the IHKA Module, using "F5 Status". Sample screens, with English Translation, are included in the Tutorial.

So I would begin by Connecting to IHKA Module, Reading Fault Codes and saving any screen that shows Fault Code or Fault Details, and then viewing IHKA > F5 Status > F1 Analog Inputs and saving that screen. Post any saved screens here for suggested Next Steps, such as adding a can of R-134a with UV Dye, or how to check for leaked Dye if such was previously added by you or your shop.

George

[200,000 club]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

INPA is the quickest way to (1) See if there are any Fault Codes saved in IHKA Module Memory, or JBBF/JBE (Junction Box Electronics) Module Memory; (2) See what Refrigerant Pressure is (per Sensor on High Side line); (3) See what Evaporator Temperature is; (4) See if all EIGHT (8) Flap Motors are operating, and if NOT, which ones are NOT operating.

I would begin by: Checking for Fault Codes saved in IHKA Module AND JBBF Module (since Pressure Sensor & Compressor Valve both connect to JBBF/JBE); Checking Refrigerant Pressure Sensor value as received by IHKA Module AND as measured by Manifold Gauge or Can Tap Gauge, if you have such a gauge. Let us know what you find (attach ScreenPrints of INPA Screens), and we can suggest Next Steps.

So you can get an idea of where to start, I attach a ScreenPrint of the IHKA > F5 Status > F1 Analog Inputs Screen. This screen shows several Inputs to the IHKA (Climate Control) Module which will be helpful in Diagnosing your situation, particularly:
1) Refrigerant Pressure Sensor input as received by IHKA Module (Bottom-Left bar graph);
2) Evaporator Temperature Sensor input as received by IHKA Module (2nd from Bottom-Right);

If you have manifold gauges, you can COMPARE Pressure Sensor input per INPA with High Side Manifold gauge reading to make sure IHKA is getting correct signal, or if there is a fault with Sensor or its connector/ wiring. The Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Value UNITS = bar, whereas Manifold gauge readout is PSIG (Pounds per square inch GAUGE. 1 bar = 14.5 PSIG.

So if you are getting NO refrigeration/ cooling, then FIRST step is to assess the refrigeration circuit for Refrigerant Pressure. When vehicle has sat for a few hours, BEFORE starting engine and causing Compressor to "pump" refrigerant, the system should be "at equilibrium" where High Side & Low Side pressures are the SAME. If the system were properly charged, the Manifold gauge readout on either side should be in range of 87+ PSIG = 6 bar+. I don't know the MINIMUM Pressure at equilbrium which is necessary for the Compressor Valve to operate and cause the Compressor to "Pump" refrigerant, but is it probably in the range of 2 or 3 bar.

Also attached is an "IHKA Module Tutorial" which describes: (1) HOW to connect to the IHKA Module, (2) How to read Fault Codes using "F4 Fault Memory", and (3) HOW to View Parameters or Inputs as received by the IHKA Module, using "F5 Status". Sample screens, with English Translation, are included in the Tutorial.

So I would begin by Connecting to IHKA Module, Reading Fault Codes and saving any screen that shows Fault Code or Fault Details, and then viewing IHKA > F5 Status > F1 Analog Inputs and saving that screen. Post any saved screens here for suggested Next Steps, such as adding a can of R-134a with UV Dye, or how to check for leaked Dye if such was previously added by you or your shop.

George

Holy shit. Thanks dude I need to try this next time I get a chance, how do you know so much about the inpa system?