[toymaker]

Because of the coronavirus I haven't driven my e90 in a long time. Long time.
Car wouldn't start. Then started. Now doesn't. Lights are on but nobody is home. In fact I couldn't turn the headlights off. Finally did though.
Seems like the car has energy for all the electricals.

Carly adapter said codes are Immobilizer, 4 of them, passenger 1, 2, and 3 and unknown. Some other codes cleared never to return. The Unknown CAS code won't clear.
Battery is around 13.9v. The whole time not driven it was connected to a Battery Tender. Always worked before. 30,000 miles on car 328i 2011.


Please any help would be much appreciated. In S. Florida.

Chris

[TunafishE93]

I would start with battery. 13.9v is car running or charging and doesnt tell you much except that alternator/charger is working.

A few things to test, what is the battery voltage an hour after no charge? What is the battery voltage at 24hr no charge, both of these should be above 12v if not then time for a new one.

Next will be voltage drop while starting. What does the voltage go down to when starting. It shouldnt drop below 9v if it does then new battery.

If you pass all those test do the same test but test voltage at under hood charging points. If you get different result report back.

Battery can cause all kinds of weird errors.

[toymaker]

Voltage drops to 12v after a few rough starts, also when not charged for a few hours. Starts at 13.9 and goes to 12v fast. I heard clicking in the glove compartment so I pulled both relays and when they were out the clicking persisted. I don't see a third relay though.

Clicking stops once the car starts. Only clicking when trying to start and when key first inserted.

I think I got a fault code about missing clamp 30G which I figure is the black relay. Pulled it no difference. Only other relay I see is the green washer relay.

I clear the codes with Carly but now "unknown module" and immobilizer codes persist.

DieHard AGM H8 900cca battery is 5 years old this week.
My Carly app stopped registering batteries even though I bought the feature.

Car starts after a few rough tries with starter noises and glove compartment clicking noises.
Once started it runs fine connected to battery tender and also without battery tender. But, then won't start again without Tender and the voltage drops to 12V on Carly.

[hassmaschine]

your battery is shot. I had the same thing happen to my E30 after using a trickle charger for a long time. the battery still showed a charge, but it couldn't start the car, and when I put it on the charger it just ran and ran for hours without ever charging it fully.

which trickle charger do you have? I have one of the really common/inexpensive ones (I think they sell them at Costco) - I'm thinking I might want to get something better next time I put the E30 away for the winter, this is like the 3rd battery I've put in it in 5 years or something.

[toymaker]

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

your battery is shot. I had the same thing happen to my E30 after using a trickle charger for a long time. the battery still showed a charge, but it couldn't start the car, and when I put it on the charger it just ran and ran for hours without ever charging it fully.

which trickle charger do you have? I have one of the really common/inexpensive ones (I think they sell them at Costco) - I'm thinking I might want to get something better next time I put the E30 away for the winter, this is like the 3rd battery I've put in it in 5 years or something.

I have the Battery Tender Plus 12V, 1.25 AMP Battery Charger.
Battery doesn't explain all the clicking in the glove compartment, or does it?

[mook1178]

The clicking is probably your starter.

[hassmaschine]

Originally Posted by toymaker

I have the Battery Tender Plus 12V, 1.25 AMP Battery Charger.
Battery doesn't explain all the clicking in the glove compartment, or does it?

yeah, I think that's the same one I have. My last battery lasted maybe 3 years? It was on the trickle charger probably 50% of that time at least. I feel like it must have been a factor.

I guess it could be the starter, but that wouldn't explain the other errors. if the starter doesn't get enough power, it can make weird sounds. and BMWs will throw all kinds of bizarre errors if the battery is nearly dead.

[TunafishE93]

There are relies in the glove box and when there is not enough juice in the battery they will drop below the working voltage like when there is a drain (trying to start). This voltage could be right at the edge of the relys working voltage causing it to engage/disengage (click click) quickly.

Anyways the car is not happy so stop tring to start until you get a new battery before you make more trouble for yourself. Theres probably a reason they warranty battery for 3 years...

[dpaul]

If you think the battery is compromised, why not take it to an AutoZone or Advance Auto and have it load tested? That's free and then you'll know.

Might also want to check the grounds, both at the battery and the big one from the chassis to the the engine block. It's a common enough problem and again, easy and cheap to test.

Finally, if you have codes, you should post them, not just report what Carly's interpretation of them is. Carly is far from perfect in this regard. Particularly interested in what your 'unknown' CAS error that won't clear might be. Yes, weak batteries can lead to a variety of random codes but you've got at least one that keeps coming back

[Schmitz]

Man. People are blaming every on covid.

[toymaker]

Originally Posted by mook1178

The clicking is probably your starter.

That clicks too but in a different way. This click is separate.

[Jesda]

My car behaved similarly after sitting for months.

I had all kinds of lights, no audio, and iDrive froze even with the three-button reboot trick.

I let it idle for a bit, drove around the cul de sac a few times, and let the battery recharge. I was surprised it started at all. After about 15 minutes of that I shut it down, started it up, and it was back to normal.

[ctuna]

If you are measuring the car with the car running you are not measuring the
battery you are measuring the alternator output.
A new 12 volt battery might measure close to 13 volts right after it came
off a multi hour charge but that wouldn't last for long.
They call it a 12 volt battery for a reason but they should really call it
a 12.6 volt battery.
You have to have a decently charged functional battery before you run diagnostics
or they will give you ghost errors.
You can't let these cars sit around they will deplete the battery because they always use
some electricity .
If you leave them sit around a battery tender is recommended.
BMW now sells a CTEK rebranded.

[toymaker]

Thank you for everybody help.
I am installing a new battery today and will report back.
Learned a lot in this thread and some things I thought I knew but I didn't.

[toymaker]

Battery did the trick. You guys and gals on this forum are the best. So much help over the past 12 years with three different BMW cars. THANK YOU.

Weird stuff a bad battery can cause!

[lordbmw]

To avoid this, drive your car for a few miles each week. Cars don’t like to sit around idle for long. Things tend to break if you do that.

[toymaker]

Originally Posted by lordbmw

To avoid this, drive your car for a few miles each week. Cars don’t like to sit around idle for long. Things tend to break if you do that.

It wasn't possible for me to drive. I would haven't given it a ride like you said though you are right..

[toymaker]

I installed the new battery. Car started than went back to how it was before.
Car starts, then doesn't, intermittent. Clicking sound in the glove compartment.

Codes are Immobilizer, 4 of them, passenger 1, 2, and 3 and unknown.

Battery tests as new. Just got it the other day, H8 900cca.

I tried to clear the codes but they persist. Clicking in the glove compartment starts when I put the key in the ignition and stops if the car starts. It is not the starter clicking which is a different sound. This clicking happens without starting the car just with the key inserted.

I pulled the two relays thinking they might be the ones clicking but it did not fix.

Is there a DME or immobilizer relay I'm missing? Could that be the problem?

this is my only car so I need to get it going

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by toymaker

I installed the new battery. Car started than went back to how it was before.
Car starts, then doesn't, intermittent. Clicking sound in the glove compartment.

Codes are Immobilizer, 4 of them, passenger 1, 2, and 3 and unknown.

Battery tests as new. Just got it the other day, H8 900cca.

I tried to clear the codes but they persist. Clicking in the glove compartment starts when I put the key in the ignition and stops if the car starts. It is not the starter clicking which is a different sound. This clicking happens without starting the car just with the key inserted.

I pulled the two relays thinking they might be the ones clicking but it did not fix.

Is there a DME or immobilizer relay I'm missing? Could that be the problem?

this is my only car so I need to get it going

You really need to post the actual, manufacturer-specific hex codes. What Carly is reporting is not very useful, other than saying there is some kind of problem involved the CAS module. The intermittent nature of the problem suggests a corroded connector or something like that but the BMW codes might help pinpoint which one of the dozens of ways the CAS can fail is at fault.

If you have the version of Carly that only reports generic OBDII codes you'll need to upgrade. But honestly, buy $45 cable from Bimmergeeks.net and download freely available BMW software used at the factory and by dealers. You'll get a lot more out it.

[toymaker]

Originally Posted by dpaul

You really need to post the actual, manufacturer-specific hex codes. What Carly is reporting is not very useful, other than saying there is some kind of problem involved the CAS module. The intermittent nature of the problem suggests a corroded connector or something like that but the BMW codes might help pinpoint which one of the dozens of ways the CAS can fail is at fault.

If you have the version of Carly that only reports generic OBDII codes you'll need to upgrade. But honestly, buy $45 cable from Bimmergeeks.net and download freely available BMW software used at the factory and by dealers. You'll get a lot more out it.

ODB cable on the way..in a few days according to amzon..., all I have are hex from the Carly app.

CAS. 00A0A9, 00A0BE, 00A0BF, 00A0C0

DRIVER KL15

Thank you!

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by toymaker

ODB cable on the way..in a few days according to amzon..., all I have are hex from the Carly app.

CAS. 00A0A9, 00A0BE, 00A0BF, 00A0C0

DRIVER KL15

Thank you!

A0B9 CAS: Hall sensor, key eject
A0BE CAS: Terminal 15 output 1
A0BF CAS: Terminal 15 output 2
A0C0 CAS: Terminal 15 output 3

They are all CAS codes.
Terminal 15 refers to the line running from CAS to the starter. The Terminal 15 codes mean the start button was pressed but the line was not activated.

A0B9 looks to me like the important one. CAS detects an error with a Hall sensor in the key slot. One of CAS concerns is security so something wrong with the key mechanism it refuse to activate Terminal 15 i.e. starter doesn't turn.

There is some diagnostic you can do -I'd start by making sure the cable from key slot to CAS was securely in place and there was no corrosion, bent pins etc. Could be key slot, could be wiring, could be CAS or CAS connectors. If I was going to try and solve this problem by throwing money at it, I'd replace the key slot.

EDIT:

Ooops!!!! Read it wrong A0A9, not A0B9
A0A9 CAS: Control-module fault

So forget about the key slot but this is still the most important code. CAS cannot be dead or you'd never get the starter to crank. So I'd think about connectors to CAS or power supply to CAS. CAS fuses in the Junction box should be F55 (5A) and F36 (40A). Power to CAS is not switched i.e. permanently on - no relays involved. I could confirm the fuse # if you post the last 7 digits of your VIN

[toymaker]

Originally Posted by dpaul

A0B9 CAS: Hall sensor, key eject
A0BE CAS: Terminal 15 output 1
A0BF CAS: Terminal 15 output 2
A0C0 CAS: Terminal 15 output 3

They are all CAS codes.
Terminal 15 refers to the line running from CAS to the starter. The Terminal 15 codes mean the start button was pressed but the line was not activated.

A0B9 looks to me like the important one. CAS detects an error with a Hall sensor in the key slot. One of CAS concerns is security so something wrong with the key mechanism it refuse to activate Terminal 15 i.e. starter doesn't turn.

There is some diagnostic you can do -I'd start by making sure the cable from key slot to CAS was securely in place and there was no corrosion, bent pins etc. Could be key slot, could be wiring, could be CAS or CAS connectors. If I was going to try and solve this problem by throwing money at it, I'd replace the key slot.

EDIT:

Ooops!!!! Read it wrong A0A9, not A0B9
A0A9 CAS: Control-module fault

So forget about the key slot but this is still the most important code. CAS cannot be dead or you'd never get the starter to crank. So I'd think about connectors to CAS or power supply to CAS. CAS fuses in the Junction box should be F55 (5A) and F36 (40A). Power to CAS is not switched i.e. permanently on - no relays involved. I could confirm the fuse # if you post the last 7 digits of your VIN

Thanks Paul. I'll check the fuses right now.

Could they be causing the clicking when I insert the key? Figured it was a CAS fault. (These things only/always seem to happen when money is tight). I read a few similar threads and some people replaced with a new CAS module but that is under the steering wheel but I figured the problem was at the clicking on the passenger side.