Carly app bricked my adapter

toymaker · 05-21-2021, 06:06 PM

I purchased the latest Carly app after being told by their support my older adapter would work. Carly app refused to register the battery, which was the reason bought it. The app required my to allow an update for the adapter to continue. The update bricked my Carly adapter. Carly support was unhelpful and points me to the T&C. No refund is forthcoming for the day old app, or the bricked adapter. I strongly advise anybody to look somewhere else for a coding app. Carly was good in the past but it seems to me it has become a scam.

Many other people complain online about the same thing but unfortunately I didn't really all the negative reviews because I was needing the battery registration today.

tcphoto · 05-21-2021, 06:35 PM

I use a cheap $15 Amazon WIFI adapter with Carly for BMW and never have a problem, I cringe every time I see the ad for their module.

TunafishE93 · 05-21-2021, 07:05 PM

I would go thru your credit card for refund. I have done it with MHD app got my money back. For apps most have moved to Protools, it has way more coding and support than Carly. Protools and MHD Wi-Fi adaptor has been bullet proof. I have tuned car over 100 times, coded many things, pretty much using it daily for the last two years without issue. Would highly recommend.

RayLivingston · 05-21-2021, 07:52 PM

Let me get this straight - you did NOT buy the adaptor from Carly? So you bought a 3rd party adaptor, which did not work, and you expect Carly to do something about it?

There is a reason they sell their own adaptor...

Contact whoever you bought the adaptor from. If there is NOT a way to "un-brick" it, then it is a POS. A firmware update should NEVER brick the device. Properly written update code will validate the new firmware BEFORE corrupting the original image, precisely so that cannot happen.

e90yyc · 05-21-2021, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayLivingston

Let me get this straight - you did NOT buy the adaptor from Carly? So you bought a 3rd party adaptor, which did not work, and you expect Carly to do something about it?

There is a reason they sell their own adaptor...

Contact whoever you bought the adaptor from. If there is NOT a way to "un-brick" it, then it is a POS. A firmware update should NEVER brick the device. Properly written update code will validate the new firmware BEFORE corrupting the original image, precisely so that cannot happen.

I think he’s saying he did buy the Carly adapter, unless he just calls it the Carly adapter but is actually referring to third-party hardware.

smass · 05-22-2021, 08:47 AM

When my Carly adapter died, I had to email them 10+ times to get the lifetime warranty to cover replacement. They have awful customer service.

toymaker · 05-22-2021, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RayLivingston

Let me get this straight - you did NOT buy the adaptor from Carly? So you bought a 3rd party adaptor, which did not work, and you expect Carly to do something about it?

There is a reason they sell their own adaptor...

Contact whoever you bought the adaptor from. If there is NOT a way to "un-brick" it, then it is a POS. A firmware update should NEVER brick the device. Properly written update code will validate the new firmware BEFORE corrupting the original image, precisely so that cannot happen.

In 2015/2016 I bought a Generation II Carly adapter from Carly after trying several aftermarket adapters that did not work; except to lighten my wallet.

The Carly adapter was for the E90 in 2015/2016 with the original Carly app which I also purchased.

I bought a new battery yesterday. The original app I purchased in 2015/2016, including the battery registration feature I paid extra for, did not work. App informed me I needed to purchase a new app. Support emailed me my Generation II Carly adapter would work "fine" with latest app I was required to use.

So, I purchased the new Carly app and plugged in authentic Carly Generation II adapter. After several attempts battery registration for new battery failed with errors and I tried all the troubleshooting "tips". I am a fairly knowledgeable computer/car guy who has registered batteries/cleared faults, and coded different cars successfully before.

After the failed attempts to register the batter, the new Carly app pop-up window all of a sudden informed me that an update to the adapter was required. Waited 10 minutes for the update to complete. Congratulations was offered by the app for updating. Adapter was no longer recognized by the Carly app. Carly app said no adapter attached.

No battery registration. Bricked adapter. Carly support is poor/unhelpful, with canned responses that look like non-sequiturs, and of course, days later.

toymaker · 05-25-2021, 07:45 AM

So many options to register and change battery type. Which one is best?
I read all the different posts but it leaves me confused.

Thanks

Tambohamilton · 05-25-2021, 08:10 AM

What battery have you installed?

m_thompson · 05-25-2021, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smass

When my Carly adapter died, I had to email them 10+ times to get the lifetime warranty to cover replacement. They have awful customer service.

I had the same experience. After lots of try this, and try that, they eventually agreed that the adapter was broken and sent me a replacement.

hassmaschine · 05-25-2021, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toymaker

So many options to register and change battery type. Which one is best?
I read all the different posts but it leaves me confused.

Thanks

I'd recommend ProTool. It's basically the full BMW Tools suite (INPA, NCSexpert, Tool32) - the only thing it doesn't do is flash modules. Unfortunately it's Android only, but Android tablets are dirt cheap. There's really nothing for iOS I'd use personally (I have to steal my son's phone to use my ProTool installation these days). It'd be easier to use my old WinXP laptop at that point.

toymaker · 05-25-2021, 11:14 PM

Does anybody like the dedicated hand held coding tools like the ES910 or the Foxtool? Thank you.

Tambohamilton · 05-26-2021, 01:21 AM

Compared with protool, no.

toymaker · 05-26-2021, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

What battery have you installed?

I had a H8 900cca AGM 90Ah before replaced it with a DieHard H8 900cca AGM 95aH
I suppose just to register, not code for a new type, would be the way to go?

Tambohamilton · 05-26-2021, 07:23 AM

I can't remember the options available when coding for a new type. If there is an option for 95ah AGM then use that. Otherwise leave it at 90ah AGM as that will be the next best thing. Either way yes, you'll need to register the new battery even if you don't/can't code the new Ah.

toymaker · 05-26-2021, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

I can't remember the options available when coding for a new type. If there is an option for 95ah AGM then use that. Otherwise leave it at 90ah AGM as that will be the next best thing. Either way yes, you'll need to register the new battery even if you don't/can't code the new Ah.

ProTools says to register for the lesser (90aH) if its just a few over which is better than overcharging. Do you agree?

toymaker · 05-26-2021, 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hassmaschine

I'd recommend ProTool. It's basically the full BMW Tools suite (INPA, NCSexpert, Tool32) - the only thing it doesn't do is flash modules. Unfortunately it's Android only, but Android tablets are dirt cheap. There's really nothing for iOS I'd use personally (I have to steal my son's phone to use my ProTool installation these days). It'd be easier to use my old WinXP laptop at that point.

I have an old WinXP laptop. Would that help me save $$$?

dpaul · 05-26-2021, 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toymaker

ProTools says to register for the lesser (90aH) if its just a few over which is better than overcharging. Do you agree?

There seems to be an enormous amount of handwringing over the issue of battery coding and battery registration. It is useful to remember that for many decades, FLA batteries were constantly charging at ~13.8v, depending on where your voltage regulator was set, for the entire time that the engine was running. As far as I can recall, the batteries I purchased in 1965 lasted about the same length of time as the batteries I purchase to today. An AGM is still a lead-acid battery and although a little more susceptible than FLA to damage by overcharging (possibly because they are sealed and have less electrolyte volume), a few amps one way or another is not going to make any difference.

IMHO, BMW has answered a question that wasn't asked.

dpaul · 05-26-2021, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toymaker

I have an old WinXP laptop. Would that help me save $$$?

Yes. Install BMW Standard Tools (free), buy a $45 cable from Bimmergeeks and spend a few minutes learning how to use NCSExpert and Tool32.

hassmaschine · 05-26-2021, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toymaker

I have an old WinXP laptop. Would that help me save $$$?

yeah, you can do coding with NCSexpert (and NCSdummy to set things up) for free basically. all you need is a cable and the BMW Tools software download.

Tambohamilton · 05-26-2021, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toymaker

ProTools says to register for the lesser (90aH) if its just a few over which is better than overcharging. Do you agree?

Yep, exactly.

Tambohamilton · 05-26-2021, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dpaul

As far as I can recall, the batteries I purchased in 1965 lasted about the same length of time as the batteries I purchase to today.

Pretty good, considering the electrical consumers in these cars!

05-21-2021, 06:06 PM	#1
toymaker Private First Class 35 Rep 188 Posts Drives: 2011 328i Join Date: May 2009 Location: S. Florida iTrader: (0)	Carly app bricked my adapter I purchased the latest Carly app after being told by their support my older adapter would work. Carly app refused to register the battery, which was the reason bought it. The app required my to allow an update for the adapter to continue. The update bricked my Carly adapter. Carly support was unhelpful and points me to the T&C. No refund is forthcoming for the day old app, or the bricked adapter. I strongly advise anybody to look somewhere else for a coding app. Carly was good in the past but it seems to me it has become a scam. Many other people complain online about the same thing but unfortunately I didn't really all the negative reviews because I was needing the battery registration today.
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05-21-2021, 06:35 PM	#2
tcphoto Brigadier General 3548 Rep 3,060 Posts Drives: E92 335i 6MT Coupe Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Nashville, TN iTrader: (1)	I use a cheap $15 Amazon WIFI adapter with Carly for BMW and never have a problem, I cringe every time I see the ad for their module. __________________
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05-21-2021, 07:05 PM	#3
TunafishE93 Major 418 Rep 1,152 Posts Drives: BMW 335i Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: NV iTrader: (0)	I would go thru your credit card for refund. I have done it with MHD app got my money back. For apps most have moved to Protools, it has way more coding and support than Carly. Protools and MHD Wi-Fi adaptor has been bullet proof. I have tuned car over 100 times, coded many things, pretty much using it daily for the last two years without issue. Would highly recommend.
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05-21-2021, 07:52 PM	#4
RayLivingston Lieutenant 140 Rep 445 Posts Drives: '07 335i Sedan Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: California iTrader: (0)	Let me get this straight - you did NOT buy the adaptor from Carly? So you bought a 3rd party adaptor, which did not work, and you expect Carly to do something about it? There is a reason they sell their own adaptor... Contact whoever you bought the adaptor from. If there is NOT a way to "un-brick" it, then it is a POS. A firmware update should NEVER brick the device. Properly written update code will validate the new firmware BEFORE corrupting the original image, precisely so that cannot happen.
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05-22-2021, 08:47 AM	#6
smass Lieutenant Colonel 399 Rep 1,579 Posts Drives: 06 325i - 10 335i Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Scottsdale, AZ iTrader: (1) Garage List 2010 E90 335i [0.00] 2016 F15 35i [0.00] 2003 E53 3.0 [0.00] 2006 E90 325i [0.00]	When my Carly adapter died, I had to email them 10+ times to get the lifetime warranty to cover replacement. They have awful customer service.
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05-25-2021, 07:45 AM	#8
toymaker Private First Class 35 Rep 188 Posts Drives: 2011 328i Join Date: May 2009 Location: S. Florida iTrader: (0)	Current best way to register or code for new battery? So many options to register and change battery type. Which one is best? I read all the different posts but it leaves me confused. Thanks
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05-25-2021, 08:10 AM	#9
Tambohamilton Brigadier General 3061 Rep 3,915 Posts Drives: E91 330d Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Herefordshire iTrader: (0)	What battery have you installed?
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05-25-2021, 11:14 PM	#12
toymaker Private First Class 35 Rep 188 Posts Drives: 2011 328i Join Date: May 2009 Location: S. Florida iTrader: (0)	Does anybody like the dedicated hand held coding tools like the ES910 or the Foxtool? Thank you.
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05-26-2021, 01:21 AM	#13
Tambohamilton Brigadier General 3061 Rep 3,915 Posts Drives: E91 330d Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Herefordshire iTrader: (0)	Compared with protool, no.
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05-26-2021, 07:23 AM	#15
Tambohamilton Brigadier General 3061 Rep 3,915 Posts Drives: E91 330d Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Herefordshire iTrader: (0)	I can't remember the options available when coding for a new type. If there is an option for 95ah AGM then use that. Otherwise leave it at 90ah AGM as that will be the next best thing. Either way yes, you'll need to register the new battery even if you don't/can't code the new Ah.
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