GT3 brake cooling scoops

[heckyeahbro69]

see below

[Brasko]

I dig the idea of the brake air scoops, but I don't think you are getting maximum (if any) cooling with the backing plates on/unmodified.

Have you looked into GTS backing plates or picking up a pair of OEM ones to modify so you don't hack up your existing backing plates?

Keep us posted on your finds!

[HKMP7]

Brembo sells the caliper temperature stickers you could do some testing with those.
:

[heckyeahbro69]

Originally Posted by ZX-10RR

Brembo sells the caliper temperature stickers you could do some testing with those.
:

That's not the issue. What I'm trying to figure out is if these will even divert any air into the brakes given the way they mount to the arm. On a Porsche, the arm they attach to is angled so the scoop can divert airflow to the brakes easily. On the f8x, the angled arm is much harder to attach to, and higher up so it's out of the airflow under the car. The way it's attached in the pics, I feel it'll just be like an air dam rather then a scoop for the brakes. I need to get the inside part of the scoop angled more towards the front of the car somehow. I'll lay under the car later and think of something. I did buy a hole saw so I can drill into the backing plates.

[HKMP7]

Originally Posted by heckyeahbro69

That's not the issue. What I'm trying to figure out is if these will even divert any air into the brakes given the way they mount to the arm. On a Porsche, the arm they attach to is angled so the scoop can divert airflow to the brakes easily. On the f8x, the angled arm is much harder to attach to, and higher up so it's out of the airflow under the car. The way it's attached in the pics, I feel it'll just be like an air dam rather then a scoop for the brakes. I need to get the inside part of the scoop angled more towards the front of the car somehow. I'll lay under the car later and think of something. I did buy a hole saw so I can drill into the backing plates.

Are all your braking components stock?
Lines pads fluid?

[heckyeahbro69]

Originally Posted by ZX-10RR

Are all your braking components stock?
Lines pads fluid?

ss lines, pagids, rbf600

[heckyeahbro69]

I ended up scrapping the cooling scoops. They just didn't fit no matter what, so I bought these.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL42...ooling+ducting


My original plan was to rivet them onto the backing plate but I found I could bolt them to the caliper mounting locations with some modification of the inlets. I ground a notch for the wheel speed sensor, and cut off part of the sheet metal ring around the actual inlet to clear the caliper. I drilled some holes for the mounting bolts bolted them up. They aren't pretty but I imagine they will be functional which is all I really want from them. The duct comes down and attaches to the lower arm and I hope it doesn't get torn off, but time will tell. Heres some pics.

[MasterP]

Nice.

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by heckyeahbro69

I was sick of my brakes fading so I decided to try something in the name of science lol. ECS tuning sells these things for next to nothing so I bought a couple pairs and tried to 'engineer' them onto my m3. With slight modification I was able to get them on the car pretty decent on the lower control arm. Only issue is where they attach best, I'd need to modify the rotor backing plate to get the air into the rotor vanes, which I'm kinda somewhat opposed to but I guess it isn't a huge deal. Anyway, here's a few pics of how they are on the car. I don't have a clue if these will even keep temps down but I guess there's only one way to find out. I still have another unmodified pair so I may try something else and test them back to back on track. Any input or suggestions are welcome.

Nice air brakes

[CanAutM3]

Originally Posted by heckyeahbro69

I ended up scrapping the cooling scoops. They just didn't fit no matter what, so I bought these.

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL42...ooling+ducting


My original plan was to rivet them onto the backing plate but I found I could bolt them to the caliper mounting locations with some modification of the inlets. I ground a notch for the wheel speed sensor, and cut off part of the sheet metal ring around the actual inlet to clear the caliper. I drilled some holes for the mounting bolts bolted them up. They aren't pretty but I imagine they will be functional which is all I really want from them. The duct comes down and attaches to the lower arm and I hope it doesn't get torn off, but time will tell. Heres some pics.

Much better

[heckyeahbro69]

Originally Posted by CanAutM3

Nice air brakes

Exactly what I was thinking lol. I had tried them on the thrust rod also but at full lock the wheel made severe contact. For $7 I figured what the hell I'll give it a go.

[Dweezil]

That's sweet. Would love to hear the temp readings . Have tried to figure out how to do this for my car. Have CCB but switched the Carbon rotors for the RB Iron replacements. Feel they need some ducting. Have not wanted to do the Revzport (sp?) kit due to the carbon backing plate which I am sure that I would break changing tires.

[larryn]

I wound up doing this earlier in the year:




It definitely made my RS29 pads last about double what they were lasting at the track.

[Dweezil]

Please show how you route your air intake up front both of you guys please. That's been the hardest part for me since the whole front end is covered in radiators (especially with DCT which I think has an extra radiator). SCTS race car build shows intake in the front right and left corners but there is no photo of the routing from there to the wheel well. I worry that placing tubing that low to get under the radiators would cause the tubing to be ripped out when going over bumps or rumble strips

[heckyeahbro69]

I'll post a better quality photo when I get home. posting from the app sucks.

[heckyeahbro69]

1 more

[larryn]

Originally Posted by heckyeahbro69

1 more

Mine does something similar, except that I route the hose further towards the front of the car. I plan to fabricate a scoop this off season. My setup has survived very well for five months so far, numerous track days and probably 7k miles.

[Dweezil]

Do you think this makes a difference? My need for this would be to try to improve longevity of pads and to prevent rotor warp/pad material buildup which can cause vibration.

[M3Tooner]

Originally Posted by larryn

Mine does something similar, except that I route the hose further towards the front of the car. I plan to fabricate a scoop this off season. My setup has survived very well for five months so far, numerous track days and probably 7k miles.

larryn and heckyeahbro, are you guys using 3" ID ducts? Looks like its a little big when it is running under the belly pan area. Do you think it might be better to use 2.5" ID instead to gain back some ground clearance? Curious to see what scoop you can fit in the front bumper and make it still look decent. Thanks both of you for posting pics of your setups. Looks great!

[larryn]

Originally Posted by M3Tooner

larryn and heckyeahbro, are you guys using 3" ID ducts? Looks like its a little big when it is running under the belly pan area. Do you think it might be better to use 2.5" ID instead to gain back some ground clearance? Curious to see what scoop you can fit in the front bumper and make it still look decent. Thanks both of you for posting pics of your setups. Looks great!

Mine is 2.5", and like everybody that ducts their car does, I squished it a little to make it oblong on the bottom of the car. There are no clearance issues.

[larryn]

Originally Posted by Dweezil

Do you think this makes a difference? My need for this would be to try to improve longevity of pads and to prevent rotor warp/pad material buildup which can cause vibration.

Sorry, missed this...

It made my track pads last more than double what they lasted without cooling. I assume there's less fade as well, but the car handles heat well (far better than my E92 M3 did).

[heckyeahbro69]

Originally Posted by M3Tooner

larryn and heckyeahbro, are you guys using 3" ID ducts? Looks like its a little big when it is running under the belly pan area. Do you think it might be better to use 2.5" ID instead to gain back some ground clearance? Curious to see what scoop you can fit in the front bumper and make it still look decent. Thanks both of you for posting pics of your setups. Looks great!

3" for me. I did squish it a little but but my car isn't too low so I've got a good amount of ground clearance. I'll get a pic when I get home. I did pull the front bumper and fender liners and searched for the best way through the front but with the coolers and lines taking up most of the space, the way that required the least (no) modification to the car was how I did it. Only time will tell if it helps. Though not very scientific, I blew compressed air at the front of the car and I could feel air blowing through the vanes in the rotors, so I assume it has to help some.