| 01-24-2019, 08:33 PM | #23 | |
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Garage List 2006 BMW Z4 M Roadster [9.01]
2016 BMW M4 Coupe ( ... [10.00] 2018 BMW M3 (Euro D ... [0.00] 2011 BMW 335is Coup ... [10.00] |
Quote:
I've seen recommendations to change them every 2 years, just haven't done it.
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| 05-17-2019, 11:43 AM | #24 |
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In a Facebook group that I'm in, with all of the members having either an M2, M3, or M4, someone who didn't yet have a stud kit on their M2 was looking for recommendations and asked the group which stud kit everyone else went with. Most everyone had a 75mm M14x1.25 kit either from Motorsports Hardware or from APEX. But one M2 owner said that they had a 75mm M14x1.5 kit and indicated that it was a "race" stud. BTW, everyone in this group is a pretty hardcore track junkie, most of them BMW CCA instructors.
I checked various distributors and discovered that Motorsports Hardware and Macht Schnell are the only ones that offered the 1.5 pitch studs and nuts. APEX and ECS Tuning/Turner Motorsports only offer 1.25 pitch studs and nuts. Does anyone know why one pitch would be preferred over the other?
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The Coupe: 2016 M4 | Sakhir Orange | Black Full Merino Leather | CF Trim | M-DCT | More | ED 5/13/16
The Sedan: 2018 M3 | San Marino Blue | Black Full Merino Leather | CF Trim | M-DCT | ZCP | ED 7/18/18 The Roadster: 2006 Z4 | Interlagos Blue | Black Extended Nappa Leather | Carbon Leather Trim | Purchased 7/19/12![]() |
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| 05-17-2019, 11:52 AM | #25 |
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I track my M, and use the Motorsports Hardware 1.5 pitch studs. I don't think there is functional difference, though.
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| 05-17-2019, 01:05 PM | #26 |
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Whats the beef here?
Is it cause: There may be some inconsistencies with this particular hex so we will be including (2) nuts for installing using the double nut method I want these 60MM and Ive currently using Motorsport studs but do not need spacers anymore and want a shorter length. |
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| 05-18-2019, 01:20 AM | #27 | |
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Quote:
A lot of the allen key recesses were misaligned or completely stripped. I had to use 3 different allen key sizes to fit the ones that weren't stripped. ![]() The nuts were an even bigger problem. When they were drilled out, a lot of them were drilled at an angle so some of the walls of the nut were super thin on one side; so thin that I could bend them with a tiny bit of pressure. Also, the threading got so close to the wall of the nut that you can see how the thread tapping warped even the outside of the nut. There was a lot of the shavings from the tapping still in the nuts as you can see. A lot of the nuts didn't even thread onto the studs freely. I don't know if the nut threads were bad or the stud threads were bad. ![]() ![]() ![]() When it comes down to it, the clearance studs and nuts "may" have worked just fine after forcing them on the car. But the question isn't whether they'll work; the question is why would you put that on your M3? It's just janky. To MH's credit, they did send me a batch of non-clearance studs and nuts with a hand written apology for the initial ones I received. That was very nice of them. I wouldn't hesitate to use MH products; I just won't buy their clearance stuff. |
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| 05-18-2019, 03:29 AM | #28 |
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x.shell Thanks for your in depth answer and pics.
On my first post to you, this is why I prefaced with what I found on their site regarding the marked down 60mm studs: "There may be some inconsistencies with this particular hex so we will be including (2) nuts for installing using the double nut method" Straight from the site. And your pics confirm that. I'm currently using both their stud kit and hardware with no issues as well. (non clearance) Besides the oxidization, functionality has remained good. Nonetheless i'll be moving to project kics lugs but still want to find a shorter stud kit and I don't think IND makes the 54mm anymore which is why I asked about these. |
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| 05-18-2019, 06:17 AM | #29 | |
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Quote:
In terms of the wording on their site, I get the sense that they changed the wording on their site because of me. Back when I purchased the clearance studs/nuts in Oct 2015, they weren't so clear in the description. If you look at internet archive, this is what was on their site: - Why on clearance? The studs may have some variances in the finish but it does not affect the functionality in any way. *Sales are final, Warranty and Returns are not accepted* I do recall mentioning to them that I felt their site description didn't fairly represent the condition of their clearance items being just finish variances; at least with what I received. They didn't dispute it and actually did exchange/upgrade me along with sending me that hand written note. But it's good to know they've updated their description of clearance items. |
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| 05-23-2019, 01:39 AM | #30 |
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If youre tracking your car, you want to replace the studs after a few events or end of the season. There are varying recommendations on when to swap, but it is a thing.
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| 06-20-2019, 08:35 AM | #31 |
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| 10-10-2019, 01:39 AM | #32 |
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Do you guys torque the nut down to 103 ft lb per the F8X spec or do you use less like 85-90 ft lb with a stud conversion? I torqued mine down to 103 but worried I should be using less since I’m running studs now.
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| 10-10-2019, 02:01 PM | #33 |
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Can vary by kit. I use MH and their instructions are to torque the stud to 20 ft/lb with blue locktite, and then torque nuts to factory spec (103.25, so 104 for the F8x). Ran 2 track seasons with zero issues and I change them every 2 seasons.
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| 10-12-2019, 02:27 PM | #34 |
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I use PS designs titanium stud and nut kit. Very nice stuff. I choose them because they will Always look great, no wear on Surface treatment, no rust and gives a nice touch to my black Wheels and the other details i've done to my Wheels.
Last edited by M 4 FUN; 10-12-2019 at 02:36 PM.. |
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| 02-24-2026, 04:27 PM | #35 |
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Are they decals or painted on Mcompetition logos? Look great 👍🏻
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| 03-04-2026, 03:25 PM | #37 |
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Who didn’t? lol
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| 03-22-2026, 05:05 AM | #38 |
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I’m using titanium ones from eBay lol. Never had an issue.
Just make sure to hand thread them on to start then you can use an electric ratchet (I use my dewalt 1/2” drive). Use a tiny bit of anti galling paste on each stud and you’ll be good. If you cross thread titanium you’re fucked. Luckily you can get a pack of 20 for like $250 from some sellers. Idk I love titanium, ppl will say it’s overkill and they’re probably right but I ain’t going back to steel
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