OE brake dust????

[geneatals]

Originally Posted by klrgoten

When you guys put on the powerstops, did you change out your rotors or anything? I want to avoid any squeaking due to incompatible brake material on.

I don't see need to concern about swpaping rotors...squeal post install would most like be due to install error, maybe some anti squeal on the back of the pads before install and a proper bedding after would help ensure no squeal

[jero///M]

Originally Posted by Rotherd31

I heard back from the rep at Power Stop an hour ago. The pads are now available for purchase. Their first supplier is rockauto.com I went on their site, put in part # 16-1656 and the pads came up and I ordered them! They were $28.00 and some change, plus shipping cost of $5.00. He did tell me that eventually they will be available on Amazon and their other suppliers, but that Rock Auto is one of their first suppliers to have them available for purchase.

thanks for the info .
I placed my order for the front and rear pads on Rockauto.com

[klrgoten]

Originally Posted by geneatals

I don't see need to concern about swpaping rotors...squeal post install would most like be due to install error, maybe some anti squeal on the back of the pads before install and a proper bedding after would help ensure no squeal

I only ask because I previously bought the carbotech 1521s which are very low dust but they squeak like there's no tomorrow because of incompatible brake material on the rotor. Their response is that they need to be used on new or resurfaced rotors.

[JamesGames]

Originally Posted by klrgoten

I only ask because I previously bought the carbotech 1521s which are very low dust but they squeak like there's no tomorrow because of incompatible brake material on the rotor. Their response is that they need to be used on new or resurfaced rotors.

Did you try bedding in the brakes? Multiple hard 80-20 stops, in immediate repetition and then coast around to cool down might help.

[geneatals]

Originally Posted by klrgoten

I only ask because I previously bought the carbotech 1521s which are very low dust but they squeak like there's no tomorrow because of incompatible brake material on the rotor. Their response is that they need to be used on new or resurfaced rotors.

cermaic pads in general are known to be noisy compatible or not, but some anti-squeal and a good bedding help a lot IMO and from personal experience....

[Rotherd31]

Several things, since I started this thread. I had about 3000 miles on my OE pads and rotors when I put on the new Power Stop pads. I did nothing to my rotors and have not had as much as one squeak. I have 7500 miles on them now. On anti-squeal material needed to be applied to the back of the backing plates. None is required as there is already an anti-squeal material on them at the time of manufacture. Lastly, to burnish (or bed-in if you prefer) the pads, make sure you follow the directions for same off the Power Stop website. They do not require high speed stops. I followed their burnish procedure to a T with perfect results.

[x.shell]

I've been keeping an eye on this thread. I've been holding out until Power Stop released the rears. Thanks you to all the early adopters.

I ordered the front and rears from Rockauto.com. I can't believe how low the price is from that site.

[Alvinized52]

Im getting mine installed as we speak. Getting my car back tomorrow am. Not sure if i need to bed them or if the shop will. Can someone please post instruction on bedding Powerstop brake pads?

[Alvinized52]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

Any of you tried coating your wheels with nano or ceramic coating? The latest technology can keep brake dust away for a much longer period of time. If you happen to get your wheels covered in brake dust, washing them is a breeze.

I assume this will not work for wheels with matte finishes, right?

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by Alvinized52

I assume this will not work for wheels with matte finishes, right?

CQuartz will work on matte finishes. At least that's what I've read.

[Ever.]

Originally Posted by Rotherd31

Several things, since I started this thread. I had about 3000 miles on my OE pads and rotors when I put on the new Power Stop pads. I did nothing to my rotors and have not had as much as one squeak. I have 7500 miles on them now. On anti-squeal material needed to be applied to the back of the backing plates. None is required as there is already an anti-squeal material on them at the time of manufacture. Lastly, to burnish (or bed-in if you prefer) the pads, make sure you follow the directions for same off the Power Stop website. They do not require high speed stops. I followed their burnish procedure to a T with perfect results.

So basically plug and play.

Has anyone here done any extensive testing on performance? initial bite, fade, spirited driving, etc?

[Rotherd31]

Alvin:

I posted where to get the burnish procedure for the pads. I guess you need more than where to get that info so I did the work for you. Cut and paste below from the Power Stop site.


IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed.

Break in the pads as follows:

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Category: FAQ'S, How To's

[BRUNBERG]

Excellent thread

I'm in the UK and would like to order these pads both front and rear as the brake dust is crazy

I went on the rock auto site and put in the part no 16-1656 and it lists the rears. Is this the correct application for the front (F82 M4)

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...nid=452&jpid=1


Can I buy new brake pad wear sensors from BMW or do I need to buy specific power stop ones for these pads?
Apologies for all the questions and thanks for all your help.

[robertg]

With 17k on my car (no track time) would I need a spreader to push the pistons back to install these or any new pads... I am use to the C-Clamp style calipers.

[psuwcc112]

Originally Posted by robertg

With 17k on my car (no track time) would I need a spreader to push the pistons back to install these or any new pads... I am use to the C-Clamp style calipers.

Its good to have but not a necessity. I bought the tool, but was able to push back by hand.

[x.shell]

Originally Posted by robertg

With 17k on my car (no track time) would I need a spreader to push the pistons back to install these or any new pads... I am use to the C-Clamp style calipers.

Originally Posted by psuwcc112

Its good to have but not a necessity. I bought the tool, but was able to push back by hand.

This guy used a wrench to spread it apart (0:35 sec mark). I'm sure an actual spreader would be better if you're OCD.

[BRUNBERG]

Sorry to be repetitive guys. I want to get these pads ordered. Will the BMW pad wear sensors fit these pads or will I need to get different ones. TIA?

[Rotherd31]

Originally Posted by BRUNBERG

Sorry to be repetitive guys. I want to get these pads ordered. Will the BMW pad wear sensors fit these pads or will I need to get different ones. TIA?

The fronts are 16-1609 and are also available on Amazon. I listed this part number for the fronts earlier in this thread. A simple review and you would have found the part#. And in that same post, I advised that the sensors do fit the new pads and how I changed them over.

[BRUNBERG]

thank you for the confirmation. Apologies, I must have missed your post

[Alvinized52]

Originally Posted by Rotherd31

Alvin:

I posted where to get the burnish procedure for the pads. I guess you need more than where to get that info so I did the work for you. Cut and paste below from the Power Stop site.


IMPORTANT: BREAK IN NEW BRAKE PADS/ROTORS USING THE PAD BEDDING PROCEDURE AS FOLLOWS. PROPER PAD BEDDING CAN PREVENT ROTOR WARPING.
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed.

Break in the pads as follows:

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 mod*erate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Category: FAQ'S, How To's

Thanks! Got my car back from the shop yesterday. Shop bedded the brakes... So far so good. No noise. Feels like stock. Its been raining here in Socal so havent had a chance to wash my car/rims to see the difference in brake dust yet, but atleast im happy to report the braking power feels like stock. I guess i will need to look into ordering the rears now

[firedown31]

This thread is great, I'll be switching over to the power stops in spring when I put my summer tires back on.

[morgan302]

I ran my car at Robling Road in Savannah GA 3 or 4 weeks ago with my stock pads. Started at 9AM stopped at 4PM our run group ran 25 min in each hr. Saw 145 MPH at the end of the front straight by the end of the day the MP pads on one of the cars was better than mine. His wheels were cleaner than mine but not by much.